Riding The
Continental Divide by Mountain Bike
August 2022
“It’s not the
ordinary things you do that defines your life, it’s the extraordinary.”
Trip Overview:
Stu Markey contacted me in the winter of 2022 all excited to
ride his bike down the Continental Divide (Part 2 Helena MT to Jackson WY) Being of sound mind and sober thinking, I did
not say ‘yes’ until late May 2022. So
just to be clear, for “fun” the idea is to load everything we needed to survive
for 500 miles onto our mountain bikes and pedal the bike up and over all the
highest mountains in the USA. The
Continental Divide Trail is touted as the longest trail in all the USA spanning
from Canada to the Mexican borders.
If you have a short attention span, you can read the next
part of what actually transpired. The
longer journal is chronicled below the stats section.
The Stat’s Here's the results of the trip if you're a
numbers guy or you merely want to prove yourself sane and that we were crazy:
Eleven days straight of mountain
bike riding averaging about 6-8 hours riding.
All nights were spent sleeping in
our tents except for the first night which was on an old oak floor inside an
old playhouse.
Food: two packs of instant oatmeal
for breakfast, energy bars for lunch, dehydrated food for dinner.
Water: never enough for how we were sweating
Temps on bike 34-98 deg F. The
mornings were best. Afternoons were a bakefest.
Distance 400 miles, 100 feet of
elevation at a time.
Distance the bike was pushed, twice
about 1/4 mile.
Distance too steep to ride down was
3/4 mile
Total elevation climb 20,100 feet (
that's Kilimanjaro from sea level to the top but who's counting haha)
Bike and gear weight not incl each
day’s water 60 lbs)
Water consumption per day about 2-3
liters
Weight loss: unknown at this point 😬
The Journal
Day 0
“Making the decision to go is not easy. Preparing for
something you’ve never done a little harder. Not knowing what may happen isn’t
hard because you don’t know. It’s
keeping your mind from thinking about all the stuff that could happen, nearly
impossible.”
The final number was three of us doing the ride. Jeff Sobczyk, Stu Markey, and Jim
Bertsch. Both Jeff and Stu are ‘tough as
nails’ guys. I was the youngest at 61
years old and the only one still working for a W2. We flew from San Diego to Helena Montana
with our bikes carefully packed, taped, and strapped into cardboard boxes. At the airport, TSA broke the boxes open and
then used their tape to sort of put it all back together. Thankfully at the cheap motel in Helena, we
re-assembled our bikes with success and no damages. Thankfully, we found ourselves ready to start
the ride one day earlier than expected.
Day 1
Highlights: Great
start. Cool morning, perfect for
riding. Hot afternoon, perfect for teaching
us a thing or two. In hindsight, our
greatest net elevation gain was on day 1.
Welcome to Montana!
With great excitement, we pedaled out of the cheap motel’s
parking lot staring primarily at our handlebar mounted GPS. We were looking for the little black line on
our GPS that we would try to follow for the next eleven days. With 60 extra pounds of gear; two panniers, a backpack, and several other
smaller bags, fully loaded with tents, food, water, electronics, first aid,
tools, our bikes felt like there was a little hippo standing on the back
wheel. As we left historic Helena, we
started climbing right away above 6000 feet elevation. In fact, the whole trip would be above 6000
ft except for one dip.
Coming from drought stricken San Diego, it was mind blowing
to see everything so green, water sprinklers running all day, and little
streams constantly pouring cool clear water in every direction. We wondered how some of this could be channeled
to the Pacific side of the Continental Divide for the West.
Of course, the scenery was awesome in every way. Pine
forests. Old mining country. Three big climbs for a day’s total of 3800 ft.
Gain. Our average was 7 mph so the 48
miles took a total ride time of 8 hours including a few breaks. I will interject here, that on any Saturday,
a road ride of 50 miles would take about 4 hours on our 18 lbs road bike. Any hopes of going 50+ miles in a day, on
heavy bikes, in 90 deg heat, were quickly modified on Day 1.
We completed the day riding up a grade that even the US Hwy
15 chose to bypass since it was too steep.
If I’m honest, two out of three of us were cramping as we rolled into
the interesting town called Basin, Montana. “where the population of dogs is
greater than the people”
Basin was an old mining town. No gas station. No store. Just
One bar and grill. After the day’s cramping, I salted the heck out of a bowl of
turkey soup then ate a taco combination plate with extra salt and proceeded to
drink three glasses of water. After
dinner, the bar was nice enough to fill our water bottles and containers that
we would need for tomorrow. We spent the
night next to the bar in a “Community Center” which smelled like an old folk’s home with a
touch of 60s cigarette smoke. For $5, we
paid the bartender and they let us sleep on the floor. This sounded like a plan because the clouds
were threatening and the center had electrical outlets so we could charge up
our stuff. Plus, we modified our
strategy to trying to get riding as early as possible to avoid the afternoon
heat. We parked our bikes inside and
tried not to disturb the nice ladies who were quilting. No sooner had the quilters left and a few
more bike riders showed up to share our accommodations. We all went back to the bar for a few cold
beers and exchanged stories and laughs. It
was nice to have a dry night’s sleep but no one slept very well because five
people all in the same room was too much noise.
The other group got up at 02:00 to cook themselves more food. Someone was always getting up to off load a
bladder full of water.
Day 2
The morning was cool and crisp. The first couple of days,
there was the usual stress of trying to get our navigation equipment to do what
we wanted. Eventually, we would modify
that to understanding what the navigation equipment wanted to show us.
While I am on the subject, a quick note on navigation. The website “Adventure Riders” had the GPS
track, a road book, and maps for the Continental Divide trail. We discovered that you better had not relied
on just one of those items to really stay on track. In fact, you needed them all. Our three GPS, would often not agree (perhaps
it was how all three were reading them).
Ironically, the cheapest method which was downloading the ADV rider app
to your phone and then using that to navigate was the best.
Our morning miles followed a lazy river which we eventually departed
and we headed into the mountains. If any climb is good then a steady uphill is
best. We climbed 1000 feet for the next 10 miles. As we neared the summit and
the crossing of the Continental Divide, the sky went from sunshine to black.
There was much discussion and hopes that the thunderstorm was going to pass us
but we got our raincoats unpacked just in case. No more than 10 minutes later,
the first lightning and rain drops started. God smiled on us and there was a
little forestry kiosk in the middle of nowhere.
I am not exaggerating. Stu
spotted it and Jeff and I wondered where the heck he was going. About 200 yards off the trail, It had a little roof just big enough for three
grown men to stand under. As it started to pour, we parked our bikes and ducked
under the kiosk. Thankfully the storm passed as fast as it was upon us and we
were standing in sunshine about twenty minutes later. After a decent amount of
climbing, we officially crossed the divide around noon. The downhill was a
chance to dry all the rain and sweat away and we spilled out of the forest into
a grass valley. “Lunchtime “ was overdue but we couldn’t find
a lick of shade to stop and eat. Finally we started getting grumpy so we
stopped and sat in the shade of a bush that barely covered us. Our “lunch”
consisted of random snack and ‘fun’ size treats we could muster up. Today, it
was a bag of lightly toasted coconut granola.
As it turned out, we were only three miles away from Butte
Montana but the last two miles were up a very steep climb and overhead
sunshine. Butte has gone from riches to
not so rich. Lots of history here so we
should come again.
We are spending the night in a KOA outside of town. Very
clean. Hot showers feel good. Feeling tired and a little homesick.
Day 3
Well, it was bound to happen. Today I ran out of chocolate
chip cookies. In my defense, I did share them and even offered the last cookie
to a very nice gentleman named Danny.
We left Butte really early in the morning to get a jump on
the day’s heat. As we left the pavement I spotted a penny on the ground and
dropped it into my pack. We climbed uphill all the way till lunchtime when we
again crossed the continental divide. Halfway up one of the steeper sections we
stopped in a patch of shade. Danny was coming downhill in his Polaris side by
side and stopped right in front of us. He was a seasoned retiree and full of
enthusiasm and local knowledge. He
jumped out and offered us some ice teas and snacks. I
offered him my last cookie. We chatted it up and said goodbye and God Bless.
After reaching the top of the divide, we had a decent
downhill but it always turns back into an uphill. The downhill part seems to last 10
minutes. The uphill seems to last
forever. This uphill was special since
it finally got us to just push the bike instead of pedaling. Afterwards the downhill was so steep we had to
ride the brakes. We spilled out of the pine tree filled mountains into a
wonderful grass filled valley. It was spectacular how far you could see in all
directions. It was around 2:00 pm and the day was reaching 85 degrees so we
spent about fifteen minutes hanging out under a concrete bridge. We had our
sights set on camping at Beaverdam campground assuming there would be a nice
lake which would allow us to make drinking water for the next day. The last
three miles were a good climb. At one point, Stu started hiking his bike
uphill. I got my bike restarted but in the lowest gear I couldn’t keep up with
him walking so I stopped and started walking too.
We arrived at Beaver Lake but a lady told us that the beaver
dam was long gone and so was the lake. Fortunately there was an ole tyme hand
crank water pump which welled up with the coolest spring water.
We picked out a campsite in the middle of the trees. Later
we walked over to one of the only other campers. Since they had a trailer, the
also had a cooler of beer which they graciously shared. We found out that it
was his birthday and sang him a loud round of Happy Birthday. ( on a later walk
by his wife said that it made his day).
We ate dinner and then gathered up all the food and put it
in the park’s bear safe locker. Now for a nice sleep in the tent at 6600 feet
in the Montana mountains.
Fun Fact. Chain lube makes a great fire starter. So do
Fritos Cornchips.
Day 4
Highlights: a climb to 8000 ft high summer meadows which
looked like the scene from The Sound of Music.
Getting better: how to sleep comfortably. Made a nice pillow
out of stuffed clothes but the trick I figured out was to put a soft shirt over
the bag as a pillow case.
Pain: legs are fine. Butt still hurts on the climbs. Hands
are getting better at six hours of gripping.
We ‘slept in’ until six o’clock but there was no rush to get
going. The plan was to ride fifteen miles to a post office and wait for a
critical package. Stu needed some
supplies that was mailed to him to a rural Post Office which only was open from
8-12 o’clock. Waiting would’ve cost us about a day’s setback but an easy day
none the less. So we kept climbing and climbing. At one of our shade stops, Stu
got the idea to call the post office. The nice lady there said that if the
package arrives before noon then she will drop it at the mercantile store in
Wise River which was about the only other place open. With that problem solved we headed over the
pass for another downhill coasting session. The downhill stopped soon and the
uphill started with a vengeance. The
last half mile up was a walk because we could not ride. Cows greeted us at the
top of the mountain.
At the crest we headed down a really steep decent called Fleecer
Pass hill. We stopped a few times to let our brakes cool off. About halfway
down, the steep road turned into a near fall off so we decided it was safer to
walk the bike last half mile. We
walked. Our bikes skidded the way down
with the brakes locked the whole time.
After the crazy hill, we spilled out into a beautiful canyon
and some fun downhill. Thankfully the package was at the store as promised. True to her word, the package was at the
Mercantile Store. The two ladies who ran
the well-stocked store were very kind to us.
There was a young Australian rider who had come down the Fleecer hill
before us. He was not looking so well
since he tried to ride down the hill and bashed his knee.
We turned off the highway and I thought it looked like a ten
mile downhill into a valley. I cheered for a downhill finish in the sunny part
of the day. In reality, it was an
optical illusion so uphill another ten miles to our campsite by a percolating
river.
Since we had been climbing all afternoon, a birdbath in the
cool stream created much happiness.
We made our rounds visiting the various campers. We never
turned down a nice offer of cold beer. As it turns out, even though people like
to get off the grid and camp in remote areas, they still love good conversation
and listening to grand stories. A herd
of cattle decided our camp ground was a great place too and wandered on through
with us just watching.
Fun Fact. Almost all of our drinking water is coming from
hand cranked wells. It’s super cold.
Day 5
Highlights: Today, we
did a bonus loop (read LOST) and we got to sleep at a ghost town.
We slept well in the mountains by a babbling river. The
morning starts with the whole process of breaking it all down and getting into
the packs. It was a cold morning, about 36 degrees. We had to ride the first
hour or so with our down jackets on but since we were again climbing, the sun
found us and had us peeling the jackets off. We ascended to almost 8000 feet so
there was a nice downhill ride to 6500. A town called Polaris. On the map it
looked like something but it only had a one room post office. I mailed some
postcards home. Polaris was our only hope for provisions. Our snacks were
running low. It’s been days without my primary staple of chocolate.! The only
other thing that Polaris offered was cell coverage so I called home to my sweet
wife. The lady in the post office
offered to drive us to the store which was “only” four miles away. On a bike, an 8 mile detour is a big detour
but we were not so dissolute that we needed to take her up for the taxi
ride. We declined her nice offer and
rode down the road looking for a snack stop.
Our goal was to reach the ghost town called Bannick making
it a 50 mile day when normally we’ve been averaging 35 miles. The mountains of
Montana are tall. Since we navigate by map, gps, and the road book guide, we
were getting used to the fact that not all three would agree sometimes so a
vote was needed. Our system fell apart somehow and we unfortunately rode 4
miles up a very steep hill. I’ll admit, I pondered as I went uphill in the
heat, why are we riding in August??
At least we had a good downhill ride to get us back on
track.
We found the campground five miles later and set up near the
lazy creek that ran through it. Again we went down and took a cool birdbath in
water which looked like old tea. Despite the brownish color it was super
refreshing and the little fish found great fun nibbling at our feet. After
dinner of dehydrated Thai surprise, we wandered around the ghost town of
Bannick. A definite must visit as there
are over 20 dwellings all preserved as a park.
At the end of the day, we are all pooped out. If I’m honest
I think “is it really what you’d call fun?” Every day has been arduous (did I
mention no chocolate?) but to a degree it becomes our routine. When we wake in
the morning, our bodies refreshed, the trip again becomes an adventure.
Tomorrow I think we will be halfway.
For now, we look forward to going to bed early. My tent is a
refuge. I use the final moments of the day to write this journal. I sleep on an
air mattress that is glorified bubble wrap and a pillow of clothes. I say my
prayers and hope the gift of sleep comes early.
Fun fact: every camp to this point, no matter how remote, we
have befriended a cold beer.
Day 6
Highlights: moving from the high mountains of Montana into
the valleys. Knocked out 50 miles. Hope to reach Idaho tomorrow. Last time we
saw a store was two and a half days ago and today’s store is a gas station.
The mountains are very pretty but you can only see so far.
We spilled out into some valleys today with views over ten miles in most
directions. The few cars we saw usually
blow by us only gifting us with cloud of dust.
A nice couple in a car stopped for us and gave us three cokes. Since it
was only nine in the morning, we rationed each can over the day. We had a nice
downhill go of five miles The ranches out here seem to be doing quite well.
Coming from drought stricken California, we awe at the amount of watering
alfalfa fields take. But then there seems to be water flowing out of the
mountains everywhere.
Our food is running low. It’s like being on a long drive
with only a quarter of a gas tank. Probably going to be ok, but if it goes to
empty, things get serious real quickly. The towns on the map look promising but
often there’s no services. So we had to
make at least 50 miles today to replenish. After 15 miles of taking turns out
front pushing the wind and heat, we rolled into Dell then a few miles later to
Lima. The store here is an Exxon gas station. It’s stocked but it’s still a gas
station. Fortunately across the street was a hunting/auto repair shop which
sold dehydrated meals. More calories without the water weight. We also stocked
up on snacks which often are our lunch. With the necessities done, we walked
over to the diner which fortunately had air conditioning. The menu had four
kinds of hamburger , some sandwiches, and not much else except for ice cream.
We ordered hamburgers and a scoop of ice cream. The waitress took pity on us
old geezers and found a sundae glass and offered us whipping cream and
chocolate sauce exclaiming , “I haven’t made a sundae in awhile, you want one
of those?” How could we refuse??
Fun fact: tonight we sleep in a little grassy ‘park’ next to
the gas station. Ironically, there’s a sign that says no dogs since it really
looks like a dog run. We slept with earplugs since there is a truckers’ rest
stop across the street. A famously long
train rolled through town no more that a stone’s throw from us. In the morning, Jeff and I were amazed at how
long the train seemed. Stu only
commented ‘What Train?”
Day 7
Highlights: our longest push, we rode 57 miles. today we
crossed grass covered valleys that were 15 miles wide. The views were so
expanse that our cameras would never serve it justice.
It was warmer today right from the start. A perfect
temperature for a ride is about 50 degrees. cool enough for a jacket. This was
not going to be a perfect day starting at 68 degrees.
We were in great spirits as we rode out of Lima climbing a
little valley back into miles of farmland. We were following the Lima River
that was moving so much water, we thought for sure there must be a
hydroelectric dam at the top. As we crossed over the rim of the dam , we could
see the lake it was holding back would’ve been a water skier’s dream. Glass
like water for miles. We ate lunch early around 11:00. There was no place to
rest our bikes or ourselves, so all just plopped onto the dirt. As usual, the ride
starts getting serious at noon because we are above 6000 ft elevation still,
there’s nothing to slow the sun’s full force. We just kept knocking out the
miles. 20,30,40. Between 40 and 50 miles, the air temperature rose above 100.
It was so hot that we dipped our shirts in every little trickle stream running in
the culverts under the road. It was easy to find them because the cattle would
line up for drinking.
Our own drinking water was getting critically low but we
made it to the ranger station by Mile 52. We drug ourselves inside and
proceeded to drain the water from his drinking system. Thankfully the last four
miles were mostly downhill. To a campground by a lake. I tried to go for a dip to rinse off and sank
to my knee deep in mud. Luckliy, there
was a two inch pipe that flowed cold spring water near the camp. We did a bird bath and laundered our
clothes.
Fun fact: the u/v rays from the sun are a great anti
microbial that’s why clothes line dried clothes smell fresh.
Day 8
Highlights: Goodbye Montana. Hello Idaho.
Today our shortcut cost us two
hours!
We stopped for the day at fifty
miles with just enough time to hide in our tents from a hailstorm
Ironically, no matter how early we get up, we still start
rolling at 08:00. Every morning we wake and immediately start putting away all
the camping gear in reverse order. It takes lots of organizing to get
everything back into all the little packs.
We rolled out of our site, nestled up against a granite
mountain on one side and a ten mile lake on the other. Thankfully the big climb
was early in the cool of the day. Heading out of the preserve we finally
crossed over the divide and into Idaho.
We rolled down hill some and we’re treated to a RV store and
cell reception. I made a call home to hear my wife’s voice.
Next we rode another hour into town. Had a real meal and
charged our electronics.
We wanted to head over to the scenic bypass but the shortcut
we took went right down an old rail trail which was very loose gravel. We
could’ve walked faster. Our shortcut cost us about two hours. Back on the busy
highway for eight miles and finally reached the scenic byway we were looking
for. We pedaled till we all were tired and pulled off into an unmarked area
looking for a campsite that was on the map. Thunder clouds were fast upon us so
we put up our tents as quickly as possible. Just as I was making the last
preparations, large drops of rain and hail started falling.
Inside my tent, I could hear the rain coming down.
Thankfully we have cell coverage so we were able to make phone calls home.
The storm broke just long enough to eat dinner basically
squatting in the forest. It started
sprinkling again but we are ready for a good night’s sleep.
Fun fact: it’s possible to fall asleep before the sun goes
down.
Day 9
Highlights:
I hate my bike seat
The butterflies we’re racing us uphill.
We left Idaho and now in Wyoming.
Our remote campground served us well. We all caught up on
sleep, nearly 12 hours. Even though it rained the night before, the high grass
surrounding our tents wasn’t wet. We maneuvered out to the dirt road to prep
our breakfast. Eating is always a happy event.
As we said goodbye to our place in the forest, we had a
great downhill run following Warm River. At one point we pulled into a scenic
overlook seeking to replenish our drinking water. We were gifted with looking
down at a grand set of Idaho waterfalls. Ten minutes later we were at the
lowest point in our ride 5200 ft elevation. It was fun coasting while it
lasted. But from 10:00 to 15:00 we climbed back uphill. Around noon we stopped
at a storybook place called Squirrel Lodge. In the middle of Idaho potato fields
was a family oasis. A cafe, (not open) a big lawn area and a covered bbq
kitchen area for big events. The short amount of pavement ended onto this
gravel road which was kinda maddening. If you chose the smooth part of the
gravel road, you had to put up with the constant bumps of a washboard road. If
you moved to the side, the deep loose gravel took more effort to power through.
My bicycle seat was torturing me the whole time.
We found a place to set up a primitive camp near a stream so
we could call it a day. Fat drops of rain started just as I was trying to do
laundry so I walked back to camp. It cleared up fifteen minutes later so we all
went back to the stream.
Another dehydrated dinner of Mac n Cheese which filled us
up. We made a fire and solved the world’s problems. Now a sudden big wind is
ripping through so who knows what weather is behind it.
Fun fact. As cool and clean as a stream looks, you cant
trust that it is suitable to drink without the correct filtration. If you do drink, it will be the quickest
weight loss program you’ve ever experienced.
No filter? Take a clear bottle of
the stream water and let it sit in the sun for a day. You can drink on day two.
Day 10
Highlights:
Sandwiches
The lodge
The pavement
Last hill
Last hiding in tents from the thunderstorm
We emerged from our deep woods camp site ready to take on
the two big climbs remaining. Our moods are always rejuvenated with rest and
food. The good news was, the weight of our food now is nearly nothing. The bad
news is we will be living for a day on one oatmeal packet, some instant rolled
oats, and our last snacks. ( more trail mix for lunch).
The first dreaded climb was steep but not nasty. The cool of
the morning and a few cowboy songs kept it manageable. In a few hours the dirt road spit us out on
top of a dam holding back a beautiful high elevation lake. We all agreed a
photo was mandatory. As we were standing there trying to take a selfie, a
camper towing a side by side rolled up and the passenger jumped out and offered
to help take the photo. Tim and Tracey were on their first post retirement
trip. We told them our story and asked if they might be so kind to make us a
simple sandwich. With a jovial yes, we were blessed with grilled cheese
sandwiches which way out did our trail mix that we were planning on. People are
so nice! We continued our climbing and finally crossed over 7800 feet for a
nice downhill skirting Yellowstone park and into the Teton NP area. Sadly, we
filmed leaving our last dirt road for the last 65 miles to the finish. No more
than ten minutes later, we were sitting in very comfortable sofa chairs at the
Headwaters resort, drinking a bottle of mocha Frappuccino. We were in cultural
whiplash. We forced ourselves out of the comfy chairs to finish the last ten
miles with a bonus climb of 700 feet, in the midday sun, 83 degrees. I struck
up singing a few songs to make the hill go by. Down the other side we zoomed
three miles to our campsite. As I sit here writing it all up, tomorrow we will
be in a hotel but tonight we are hunkered down in our tents again from an
afternoon monsoon thunderstorm.
Day 11
Highlights:
Today we rode all the way around the Grand Teton National
Park and finished our last mile.
Our routine every night after dinner was to look at the map and
strategize the next day. Our last day of travel appeared to be anticlimactic
because we would be on the road and on a paved bike path. The day would prove
this wrong.
As we stowed our drenched tents from last night’s rainstorm,
it was a mixed range of emotions to set out on our last day of riding. No one
looks forward to eleven days of riding on the first day, but after awhile
riding all day becomes ‘what you do. ‘
We were down to our last provisions so it was the last
oatmeal pack, the last bit of oatmeal crunch. The last hot chocolate was long
gone. The last thing we did after everything was packed was rode over to a
newly engaged couple, whom we had a great conversation with the night before on
our social walk. We have them a gift of $30 to buy a bottle of wine to
celebrate their engagement. They laughed and waved goodbye. For every ending,
there’s a beginning.
Teton NP is a range of mountains that are as far as the eye
can see and reach up to the big sky of Wyoming. There are a few lakes at the
mountains’ base which dimly reflects their grandeur. We had about 40 miles left
of riding. 40 as a number doesn’t sound like much but we basically rode today
all the way around the whole range of these grand Tetons and saw them from
every angle. I think the fact that we could actually see the distance to ride
today had us all in awe. We stopped at the park’s overlooks which were packed
with visitors. Being around lots of people again was still an adjustment but it
was fun to share our stories with folks who were interested. “Really?” They
would ask, “your rode your bikes here?”
Leaving the Grand Teton NP we rode down a marvelous bike
path which for the most part was a steady downhill grade. The skies could not
make up their mind on whether it was going to be sunny or start to rain. Ahead
in the distance was our last town, Jackson WY. The finish line is a thing of
joy, accomplishment, and completion, yet it also meant that our odyssey was
coming to an end and so our mood was a a-bit melancholy. At one point during
this last day, there were some moist eyes but we would say something flew into
our eyes. We stopped for a group photo at the city limits then cruised into
town and merged with all the traffic and tourists swarming this little town.
We checked into our hotel. They were gracious enough to
store our bikes in a unused room. Ahhhh so many luxuries after eleven days of
remote riding. Our first hot shower was punctuated with seeing all the dirt
rush down the drain. Our laundry, even our non riding clothes, smelled famously!
I set the commercial washer on the heaviest setting it had. I swear that as I
closed the door, the machine gagged as I put a handful of quarters in to start
it. Even after our showers, the hot tub seemed like a wonderful luxury so we
headed over and bubbled away the trail owies. The timer ran out and we set it
for another go. After the hot tub came a real meal. After dinner, we stopped by
the famous Cowboy Saloon and listened to a country band play some tunes.
Another interesting phenomena was that for the next few
days, we would eat a meal then afterwards become hungry for another meal almost
right away. No restaurants were open after 9:30 so we walked over to Wendy’s
and ordered a second dinner.
The last day was spent cleaning our bikes and dropping them
off for shipment home. Another big lunch and an afternoon nap ( wow! A nap?
What a luxury!!) and off to another big dinner with Jeff treating us to a
generous ice cream finish.
As we fly home, our hearts look forward to hugs from our
wives yet our thoughts look backwards to a trip that will make for wonderful
stories to tell our grandkids and they will say, “Tell us again Grandpa about when
bicycles actually had to be pedaled to make them go over the Great Continental
Divide!”
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